While serving us lamb stew that he had prepared himself, Sambhav explained that his ex-partner, who was from Kashmir, had lost his life 16 years earlier in a shootout with the Indian army. In 2019, the ruling Hindu nationalist party, the BJP, revoked Article 370 of the Indian Constitution, which had granted Kashmir special status. Since then, the region has been under lockdown, with communication networks severely restricted. Sambhav has been unable to visit his partner’s grave for six years. As he finished his story, he suggested that we accompany him to find the grave. We agreed. He insisted on taking the same bus he used to take with him: a 24-hour journey along narrow roads to the far reaches of the Himalayas, arriving at sunrise in a misty, mountainous region